Getting going again

As my last post said; I had gone through a short time of not climbing due to low psyche… Obviously now I have started climbing plenty again and the psyche has really gone through the roof, but what has really struck me is how quickly I have gotten back into the game again and how I feel like I have broken through the plateau that I was sitting at. My realization came when I managed to stick every move in isolation on possibly the longest standing project I have: Parthenon – 8a at Deadwood in Newlands Forest, until sticking these moves I always thought this project was only possible long in the future but now I feel that this climb is definitely possible. The redpoint crux involves a long cross over with the right hand to a good edge, using a right heel hook. the has to very precise and unfortunately the heel on the La Sportiva Solution is a bit big to fit comfortably. The ideal shoe for this problem in my opinion is the La Sportiva Python which has a narrow and super sticky heel which you can really jam into the hook.

La Sportiva Python

La Sportiva Python

At the moment I am waiting on my skin to heal up for this weekend when i’ll put another session into it. This may be the project that I have the highest psyche for at the moment but I am not forgetting about all the other projects I have.

Here are a few:

Miss Cave - 7b+

Miss Cave – 7b+

Stalker on the Horizon - 7c

Stalker on the Horizon – 7c

In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Cloverfield - 8a

Cloverfield – 8a

Fat Sally - 7c

Fat Sally – 7c

Midnight Monkey - 7b+ Overhanging climbs are no problem for the Pythons.

Midnight Monkey – 7b+
Overhanging climbs are no problem for the Pythons.

IMG_9525

Teatime – 7c

 

Advertisements

First Trip Fever

There is a point in many climbers lives where the psyche is just not where it should be… 2015 has been a very quiet year in terms of climbing for me, what with studying for Matric finals and it’s endless demand for time.

Which is why I was so keen to hit up Rocklands with good friends to awaken the psyche from it’s slumber.

I had a few doubts as to what my performance would be like because I have not been training much at all, but psyched friends and the stunning landscape drove me not to care about sending rather instead just appreciate the beauty and prestige of Rocklands which we live so close and often take for granted.

Getting psyched on the drive up

Getting psyched on the drive up

The first day we walked to “8 days rain” area to check out a few problems I’ve always been keen to see. Unfortunately the battery was dead on my camera so couldn’t document anything.

Jahne Theron and I got psyched on missioning around the area and found ourselves attempting the heinous Yosemite Slab boulder in the sun!! Not the best of ideas… After that we headed down to Vanity – 7a+, I got super psyched on the beauty of the problem and managed to send second go, btw I recommend this problem a million times, absolutely fantastic!

That was all I sent on the trip, got really close on a few project which will definitely go down on the next trip. Psyche is through the roof!!

Rob working an incredibly hard 6a+

Rob working an incredibly hard 6a+

Pumped!!

Pumped!!

The Rhino - 7b+

The Rhino – 7b+

The Rhino - 7b+

The Rhino – 7b+

The Rhino - 7b+

The Rhino – 7b+

Jahne sending Minki - 7b

Jahne sending Minki – 7b

Jahne sending Minki - 7b

Jahne sending Minki – 7b

Shift Horizons - 7b+

Shift Horizons – 7b+

Shift Horizons - 7b+

Shift Horizons – 7b+

Poison dwarf Direct - 7c+

Poison dwarf Direct – 7c+

Jahne working Poison Dwarf Direct - 7c+

Jahne working Poison Dwarf Direct – 7c+

Psyched!!@!

Psyched!!@!

Repeating Minki

Repeating Minki

Night session on Miss Cave - 7b+

Night session on Miss Cave – 7b+

Night session on Miss Cave - 7b+

Night session on Miss Cave – 7b+

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon - 7c

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon – 7c

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon - 7c

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon – 7c

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon - 7c

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon – 7c

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon - 7c

Playing around on Stalker on the Horizon – 7c

Psyched!!

Psyched!!

Sponsored by:

Outward-web

Druck

La-Sportiva-Thumb

Echo Valley in the mist

So after 2 weeks of no real climbing due to a split tip I finally managed to get back on some projects at Echo Valley one of them being In Search Of A New Sound – 8a which is a really hard crimper prow problem. Unfortunately I didn’t manage to send it but I did manage to send an awesome little 7a called Test Tube which had been in the back of my mind since I first tried it 2 or so years ago.

Video here:   https://vimeo.com/111417747

Because of the rising summer temps I wasn’t able to climb for too long but there was the high line crew rigging a line up there which was rad to watch and photograph.

Some stills from the day.

Working In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Working the crux move on  In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

Working the crux move on In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound - 8a

Working In Search Of A New Sound – 8a

Andy Court highline

Andy Court highline

Andy Court highline

Andy Court highline

Andy Court highline

Andy Court highline

Andy Court highline

Andy Court highline

 

National Lead Competition 2014

Climbiclimbing on the final open route

The route that won me second place in the Open mens final.

 

 

 

So it is about time that I take the time to post a little something about the competition I recently competed in.

A big thanks to all the organizers who by far worked the hardest to keep everything smooth and also to the belayers who never short roped anyone (thank god) and another massive thanks to everyone who was competing alongside me especially everyone in the Open Mens and U17. Big congratulations to Andrea Biffi who won Open mens and Jaya Curtis for winning the U17 category.

La Sportiva Python Review

301627_507954272579195_666961791_n482359_507954289245860_319037049_n

So about a year and a half ago I received a pair of La Sportiva Pythons from the crew at Outward Ventures. At first glance you will see a soft slipper type shoe that is apparently designed primarily for smeering but instead this shoe can do much more than just smeer well, the La Sportiva Python is still my favorite shoe to climb in because it has everything you need from a shoe and is absolutely astonishing as an all rounder shoe.

954661_539520676089221_162868654_n

Demonstrating the true heel hook capability on Mint Berry Crunch – 8a

The first thing I was interested in was if the heel would be solid and not slip off during a tense heel hook as most soft slippers do, this shoe sorts that problem out with a single velcro straps which creates an epic amount of adjustment for people with different shaped feet. I have fairly wide feet so this strap makes this shoe the best fitting on me, no shoe has ever come close to fitting as comfortably and snug as the Pythons do. The rubber on the heel is much softer than the rubber on the La Sportiva Solution which allows it to grip on anything whereas the Solutions struggle because they are not sensitive enough, that is what I love about the Pythons, you can feel absolutely everything throughout the whole shoe so instead of just plonking your heel onto something and hope it stays like you do with the Solutions you can actually feel what is good and what is not which is great when you are a beginner and are unsure of how to heel hook well. When you pull the Python on there is massive suction which is another awesome feature which just gives you that extra bit of security when it comes to heel hooking.

Using the Pythons to send Crowd Control - 7a

Using the Pythons to send Crowd Control – 7a

The sole of the shoe uses extremely sticky Vibram rubber which is considered the best all round climber rubber as the Five Ten rubber has very little durability. The Pythons sole is the softest that La Sportiva had made but still this shoe’s rubber lasted for longer than a year of constant climbing with them.

Topping on the Coke boulder in Ceres a while back.

Topping on the Coke boulder in Ceres a while back.

The Pythons were originally designed for competition gym climbing but I have found that these shoes are great for all climbing styles: slab, roof, sport, hard trad you name it! This shoe has pleased me with everything I used them for which is why they will always be the greatest shoe that I have climbed with and am looking forward to completing all the projects that come with them.

Overhanging climbs are no problem for the Pythons.

Overhanging climbs are no problem for the Pythons.

 My sponsors are La Sportiva and Wild Country thanks to Outward Ventures

 http://www.outward.co.za

Stunning Redhill

The scenery at Redhill is absolutely breath taking is every photographers dream place to capture the true beauty of of the wilderness so close to Cape Town.

Image

Afternoon at The Cinema

Afternoon at The Cinema

So my friend Rowan and I decided to head up to The Cinema; which is an area in Topside with a bunch of really good lines. I had never been there before so I was extremely psyched to check out the scene and find some new projects. We got going at about 3:00 and reached the area at about 4:30; that is one hell of a walk in when it’s warm! Rowan has a project called Zodiac – 8a+ which extends off Cloverfield – 8a, so we decided to put time into these two problems, I got really psyched on Cloverfield after figuring out all the moves, the line starts on a good edge with a high left foot and you need to pull into a left hand undercling; this is definitely the hardest single move on the problem with the redpoint crux at the top of the problem. Unfortunately I could not finish the line but it will definitely go down in the near future.
Psyche is HIGH!!!