As my last post said; I had gone through a short time of not climbing due to low psyche… Obviously now I have started climbing plenty again and the psyche has really gone through the roof, but what has really struck me is how quickly I have gotten back into the game again and how I feel like I have broken through the plateau that I was sitting at. My realization came when I managed to stick every move in isolation on possibly the longest standing project I have: Parthenon – 8a at Deadwood in Newlands Forest, until sticking these moves I always thought this project was only possible long in the future but now I feel that this climb is definitely possible. The redpoint crux involves a long cross over with the right hand to a good edge, using a right heel hook. the has to very precise and unfortunately the heel on the La Sportiva Solution is a bit big to fit comfortably. The ideal shoe for this problem in my opinion is the La Sportiva Python which has a narrow and super sticky heel which you can really jam into the hook.
At the moment I am waiting on my skin to heal up for this weekend when i’ll put another session into it. This may be the project that I have the highest psyche for at the moment but I am not forgetting about all the other projects I have.
Here are a few: